How to Identify Authentic Lucknowi Chikankari
Hand embroidery versus machine work — a few simple signs to check before you buy online.
What is Lucknowi chikankari?
Chikankari is a fine white-thread embroidery style traditionally associated with Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh. Floral, vine and jaali (lattice) patterns are worked onto light fabrics. Today the style is made and worn across India.
Hand embroidery vs machine embroidery
The two are different things and each has its place — what matters is that you know which one you are buying.
- Check the reverse side: hand work shows slightly messy threads, loose knots and small irregularities on the back. Machine work looks perfectly even and clean from behind too.
- Pattern detail: in hand embroidery the same flower is never exactly identical twice. A machine repeats every motif perfectly.
- Variety of stitches: traditional chikankari uses several stitch types — taipchi, bakhiya, phanda, jaali — within one garment. A machine usually repeats a single stitch style.
- Price and time: hand embroidery takes weeks of work, so it costs more. Be sceptical of very cheap 'hand chikankari'.
What to look for when buying online
- Zoom into the product photos — a close-up of the embroidery should show the texture of the stitches.
- Read the product description — the fabric, the type of work and what is included in the set should be stated clearly.
- If in doubt, ask the seller whether the work is hand or machine — an honest shop will answer directly.
Caring for chikankari
Wash in cold water with a mild detergent, avoid hard wringing, dry in the shade and never iron directly over the embroidery. With the right care the work stays fresh for years.